AN INTRODUCTION TO ROMANIA

Day 1 Bucharest

Land in Romania’s capital, the centre of industry and culture of this south-eastern nation, and where neo-classical, Bauhaus, art deco and Communist-era architecture fantastically collide. Allow us to arrange activities at your leisure today, but first, settle in at your boutique Old Town hotel, The Mansion. On a central historic street near the Dâmbovița River, its grand façade belies the 19 modern rooms within – many tastefully themed, in art deco, Japanese, Transylvanian and Ottoman styles.

Overnight: The Mansion

Day 2 Bucharest

Start off with a walking tour of the city centre, strolling down Victory Avenue to admire the soaring art deco Telephone Palace, or the wonderfully eclectic mixture of styles that make up the CEC Palace. After coffee, your local guide will illustrate how the city evolved from a mere intersection for merchants into a key Communist capital, and the modern European city it is today. Wander the Old Town before stopping at Caru cu Bere: an old inn that is now a restaurant favoured by both locals and travellers for its traditional fare. A little busy at dinner, it is an ideal spot for lunch. This afternoon, appreciate the finest art to be found in Bucharest, at four museums that are right next to each other. The Museum of Recent Art is the country’s first private art museum, dedicated to contemporary Romanian artists, while the National Museum of Art spans works from the medieval to modern day, including the Romanian royal family’s international collection.

Overnight: The Mansion

Day 3 Bucharest to Brasov

This morning, drive or walk to the Palace of Parliament – the second largest administrative building in the world after the Pentagon – to explore its sprawling interiors and terrace with an exceptional view of the city. Appreciate palatial, gilded glamour of a different kind during a private tour of the former residence of Romanian Communist leader Nicolae Ceaușescu. For lunch, choose the Old Town centre or lakeside Herăstrău Park. On your three-hour northbound journey to Transylvanian Brașov, stop in Sinaia to visit Peleș Castle, the enchanting neo-Renaissance summer residence of the Romanian royal family, built at the end of the 19th century; and the smaller, art nouveau Pelișor Castle. In Brașov, check in at Villa Katharina, a boutique establishment with an intimate atmosphere in the city’s medieval centre. Simple 18th-century character fills each of its three rooms, with a locally-sourced breakfast served downstairs or on silver trays in bed.

Overnight: Vila Katharina

Day 4 Medieval Brasov

Take this morning at leisure to discover medieval landmarks such as the imposing Gothic Black Church; walk the metre-wide Rope Street; and scale the city walls, which offer charming views of the valley below. Stop at La Ceaun for lunch, a tiny restaurant that serves a true taste of the local cuisine.

A short drive will lead to a private visit of the towering, turreted Bran Castle (also known as Dracula’s haunt), followed by a pair of striking fortified churches in Harman and Prejmer. In Harman, share a meal at the home of Marcela Cosnean, a consummate Romanian cook, before returning to Brașov.

Overnight: Vila Katharina

Day 5 Viscri

After a morning’s exploration at leisure, drive a little over an hour to the village of Viscri – home to Saxon, Romanian and gypsy families (visiting tourists are, indeed, in the minority here). Enter its delightful UNESCO-protected fortified church, and meet local craftsmen who will show you their traditional skills in clay and iron.

For dinner, if fine weather allows, enjoy a lively Saxon repast with fellow travellers in the yard of a local who will cook you traditional dishes made using fresh ingredients picked straight from her garden. Alternatively, try the quaint Viscri 125 guesthouse with its barn restaurant, or dinner in a house owned by HRH Prince Charles, also prepared by locals. Continue an hour northwards still to Sighișoara, a medieval Transylvanian citadel that remains – a rarity – inhabited. Inside its walls, arrive at the wonderful nine-room Fronius Residence: itself a piece of high-ceiling and stained glass Saxon history.

Overnight: Fronius Residence

Day 6 Sighisoara and Biertan

Amble through the citadel and past its historical landmarks before lunch, soaking in Sighișoara’s past as a central European stronghold. In the afternoon, take a short drive south to Biertan, where more medieval Saxon history comes to life within its fortifications. In one house, couples planning to divorce were once locked up together for a fortnight, with just one bed and one set of cutlery to share – in 400 years, only one couple still decided to break up after such a “holiday”.

Carry on driving through Transylvania’s panoramic valleys and countryside to Sibiu, to rest for the next couple of nights at the boutique Timpuri Vechi in the historic town centre. Expect flourishes of grandeur and garden views.

Overnight: Timpuri Vechi

Day 7 Sibiu

A local guide will show you Sibiu’s remaining medieval splendours; the cobbled 14th-century footway ramp built to connect upper and lower Sibiu; its Bridge of Lies, the oldest cast-iron example in Romania; and the varied architectural styles of the city’s evangelical and orthodox churches. In the afternoon, uncover hidden corners of the city or visit shepherds at the surrounding sheepfolds, before dining at Timpuri Vechi.

Overnight: Timpuri Vechi

Day 8 Sibiu and drive to Bucharest

Visit the intriguing Pharmacy Museum, an apothecary set-up that celebrates the emergence of the first recorded apothecary here in 1494, and the pharmaceutical traditions that developed around Sibiu. In the afternoon, stroll around the city and picturesque villages nearby.

Later, choose one of three routes to drive back to Bucharest. The first two will take between five and seven hours, but the third, the 150-kilometre mountaintop Transfăgărășan highway, is a remote, utterly scenic and unforgettable journey that will delight motoring enthusiasts in summer months. Fly home from Bucharest, or extend your trip into Bucovina.