Land in Romania’s capital, the centre of industry and culture of this south-eastern nation, and where neo-classical, Bauhaus, art deco and Communist-era architecture fantastically collide. Allow us to arrange activities at your leisure today, but first, settle in at your boutique Old Town hotel, The Mansion. On a central historic street near the Dâmbovița River, its grand façade belies the 19 modern rooms within – many tastefully themed, in art deco, Japanese, Transylvanian and Ottoman styles.
Overnight: The Mansion
This morning, drive or walk to the Palace of Parliament – the second largest administrative building in the world after the Pentagon – to explore its sprawling interiors and terrace with an exceptional view of the city. After coffee, stroll down Victory Avenue to admire the soaring art deco Telephone Palace, or the wonderfully eclectic mixture of styles that make up the CEC Palace. For lunch, choose the Old Town centre or lakeside Herăstrău Park.
On your three-hour northbound journey to Transylvanian Brașov, stop in Sinaia to visit Peleș Castle, the enchanting neo-Renaissance summer residence of the Romanian royal family, built at the end of the 19th century; and the smaller, art nouveau Pelișor Castle. If time and energy allow, take a cable car from Bușteni up to the Bucegi mountains’ plateau. This flat Carpathian region is known for its sphinx-like rock formation, and as an “energy spot” for the Dacian gods.
In medieval Brașov, check in at Vila Katharina, a boutique establishment with an intimate atmosphere in the city centre. Simple 18th-century character fills each of its three rooms, with a locally-sourced breakfast served downstairs or on silver trays in bed.
Overnight: Vila Katharina
Take this morning at leisure to discover medieval landmarks such as the imposing Gothic Black Church; walk the metre-wide Rope Street; and scale the city walls, which offer charming views of the valley below. Stop at La Ceaun for lunch, a tiny restaurant that serves a true taste of the local cuisine.
In the afternoon, drive a couple of hours towards the remote eastern Transylvanian village of Valea Zălanului, where HRH Prince Charles’ private residence will be your home for the next couple of nights. Settle in to this remarkably restored property with centuries of tradition and antiques scattered throughout its seven rooms. There is no telephone or internet connection here, but after an afternoon getting acquainted with Valea Zălanului’s natural beauty, homely comforts and centre for local crafts, you will be quite thankful for it.
Overnight: The Prince of Wales's Guesthouse, Valea Zalanului
Hop on a bicycle and roam through the village, rolling hills and flower-filled plains. There are some gentle rides that can be accomplished before lunch, followed by riding or perhaps a walking tour with a biologist who will reveal the local area’s astounding biodiversity. Depending on the season, spend the afternoon tracking wildlife around the property – so remote that animals often come excitingly close, particularly foxes and deer, and after harsh winters, even wolves and bears.
Overnight: The Prince of Wales's Guesthouse, Valea Zalanului
Take the morning at leisure to explore the peaceful village, or continue your cycling or riding on a more ambitious route with a picnic in hand. If you return before sunset, learn traditional recipes from the locals, such as vegetable soups, jams or chimney cake: a delicious sweet treat made from dough rolled in sugar and rotated on a spit to bake it.
Overnight: The Prince of Wales's Guesthouse, Valea Zalanului
Start out early for your next destination, Zabola, where you will stay on Count Mikes’ 500-hectare family estate, deep in the arresting Transylvanian forest and countryside. Its secluded standalone houses and a forest lodge present cosy rooms that combine 15th and 19th-century splendour with thoroughly modern luxuries, to terrific effect. Its hunting grounds are right in the knee of the Carpathians, rich in wildlife – from wild boar and bats to storks and stags.
For lunch, transfer in a 4x4 or by horse and cart to have a picnic on the hanging terrace with a stunning view of the estate. Drive or walk back to the property to meet its gamekeeper for a spot of wildlife tracking and find yourself at one with nature, all year round. In the evening, try bear watching in a forest hut right in the middle of their habitat. The Romanian Carpathians are home to more than 45 per cent of Europe’s brown bear population, and Transylvanians have lived with them for hundreds of years. Dine on the estate, and enjoy a wine and palinca tasting (plum brandy is at its best – and strongest – in this part of the world).
Overnight: Zabola Estate
Drive and then walk the rest of the way into the nearby village of Comandău, a tiny and isolated mountain outpost. Share a drink with locals at the pub, before diving straight into nature’s bounties again on today’s 23-kilometre journey. Returning to Zabola, meet a local astronomer who on a clear night will be able point out the universe’s twinkling natural wonders.
Overnight: Zabola Estate
Take a scenic four-hour drive back to Bucharest for your flight home.
Low | £ 3,970 | $ 5,793 |
Mid | £ 4,125 | $ 6,020 |
High | £ 4,425 | $ 6,457 |
£££ | Great quality at competitive prices |
££££ | Excellent accommodation at a moderate to higher price level |
£££££ | The very best in class and priced accordingly |