The north-eastern city of Umeå is a fascinating cultural and coastal alternative to Stockholm, 400 kilometres south of the Arctic Circle. Shipbuilding and sea trade ruled the waves here in the 19th century, and Stora Hotellet pays fitting tribute to Umeå’s maritime history (the hotel itself having been constructed in 1844 by the seaman’s mission). The utmost care and nautical flair have been applied to its interiors: plush midnight blue velvet curtains flow from vast ceiling heights; fishing nets hang between dark woods and sleek tiling; tentacle patterns sprawl over walls – the themed effect is handsome and supremely tasteful.
A lively continental indoor square is home to a deli, artisan bakery, theatre and cinema, as well as the more formal Gotthard’s Krog restaurant. This atmospheric bolthole marries industrial style with contemporary comfort, and hearty seasonal fare is served with a creative twist. Umeå ahoy.
