My most recent visit to Mexico was a wonderful combination of old favourites and new discoveries. As I travelled from Mexico City to the winelands of the Valle de Guadalupe and on to the magnificent Baja California Peninsula, I was reminded of Mexico’s extraordinary diversity. There are endless combinations of places and experiences here, which have the power to draw you back to the country again and again.
MEXICO CITY REVISITED
Whether you are a first-time visitor, or returning once again to this vibrant capital, Mexico City really is a destination in its own right. There’s just so much to see and do here, and I could easily spend a week visiting museums and galleries alone. But there’s far more to Mexico City than just this, from its colourful markets, rich history, and a world-class foodie scene. It is a place I guarantee will always leave you wanting to come back for more.
Things to do in Mexico City
- Marvel at the mighty Zócalo, the city’s buzzing main square, and the Metropolitan Cathedral which stands on the foundations of an Aztec temple
- Delve into Mexico City’s legendary foodie scene with a tour of the irresistible Mercado Coyoacan, or an expedition through the city’s best taco stands and mezcal makers
- Travel by a traditional wooden boat along the Aztec-made canals of Xochimilco
- Visit the fabulous National Museum of Anthropology with an expert guide and discover its astonishing array of artefacts
- Follow In the Footsteps of Frida Kahlo with visits to Casa Azul (Frida’s House), and the Museo Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
- Take a day trip out to the towering Mesoamerican pyramids of Teotihuacan
VALLE DE GUADALUPE
From the Mexico City I know and love, my next stop was somewhere completely new to me. The Valle de Guadalupe is an exciting new wine destination, as well as an emerging gastronomical hotspot. Wine production here is, in fact, nothing new. European missionaries began cultivating grapes in the valley as early as the 16th century. What has transformed the region is more government support for the wine making industry in recent decades, and the arrival of the first significant luxury hotel in the shape of the Banyan Tree Veya. There are now over 100 wineries in the valley, and the absence of strict appellation laws has made the wine scene a highly creative and expressive one.
But what about the wine itself? I have to admit I was enormously – and very pleasantly – surprised! I tasted some very impressive wines here, and thoroughly enjoyed interactive activities such as wine blending. Sitting in my heated outdoor plunge pool under the stars at the Banyan Tree Veya, sipping a lovely glass of wine from my wine fridge, made me very excited to start offering this remarkable corner of Mexico to my clients. I have clients who have taken extensive wine tours in Chile and Argentina, and I know they would absolutely love the experience here.
WHALE WATCHING IN BAJA CALIFORNIA
Baja California is one of the longest peninsulas in the world, so even my flight south from Tijuana was utterly breathtaking, with incredible views of vast expanses of desert and the Pacific Ocean. My eventual destination was San Ignacio, around half-way down the peninsula, and I was here to experience something I’d been hearing about for many years. The chance to watch gray whales in the San Ignacio Lagoon.
The sheltered, protected waters of the San Ignacio Lagoon are considered to be one of the best areas in the world to see gray whales. And my time here certainly did not disappoint! Every year, thousands of gray whales migrate south from Alaska to the calm lagoons of Baja California to give birth and nurse their young. The best time to see them here is between January and March. Gray whales are often referred to as the ‘friendly whales’ due to their natural curiosity. I’d heard stories about gray whales regularly approaching boats in this area for no other reason than their curious and playful nature, and I couldn’t quite believe it until I had seen it with my own eyes. It was truly astonishing!
Any concerns I’d had about responsible tourism in the area were allayed by the expert team who were hosting me. As part of the UNESCO-recognised El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve, the San Ignacio Lagoon is highly regulated to ensure only licensed local operators can offer whale watching trips, and these have to meet strict criteria. Boats are only permitted to be in the lagoon for up to 90-minutes at a time, twice a day. Only a maximum of 16 boats are allowed to be in the waters at a time, and in widely dispersed areas. What this means for the visitor is not only the assurance that disturbance to the whales is kept to a minimum, but also the most incredibly intimate and peaceful encounters with these majestic creatures. I have been whale watching in many parts of the world but, for me, what I experienced in San Ignacio was phenomenal and completely unmatched. In the height of the season, the whales are seemingly everywhere. You see them on every single 90-minute boat trip, and in such close proximity! At one point I was perched at the very front of the boat, watching an enormous whale pausing to eat. I could even see its huge eye! You completely forget everything else in that moment! It is such a privilege.
If you would like to experience this for yourself, we can arrange a four-day adventure which includes return charter flights to San Ignacio, whale watching boat trips, all meals, and accommodation in a beautifully remote desert camp.
Where to stay for whale watching in San Ignacio
This area of Mexico is utterly unspoilt, and surrounded by desert and ocean as far as the eye can see. The very best way to encounter the gray whales in the San Ignacio Lagoon in such a profound way is to stay in a comfortable desert camp. The camp we work with features spacious tented rooms on raised wooden platforms with a private bathroom and shower. Each tent also has a terrace looking out to the Pacific Ocean. I loved sitting on my terrace at the end of each day, watching the sky come alive in fiery shades of orange at sunset. The night skies were equally special, with an incredible canopy of stars due to the complete absence of light pollution in this off-grid location.
Whilst the San Ignacio camp is undoubtedly a more adventurous experience than a hotel stay, I really appreciated the attention to detail in touches such as electric blankets and heaters for the cold desert nights, 24/7 electricity and internet, and hearty meals prepared for me every day at camp. You can also take advantage of paddle boarding and kayaking in your downtime between whale watching, listen to presentations by the naturalist guides, and enjoy drinks and games of pool in the bar tent. For me, it was well worth the effort of sacrificing the comforts of a traditional hotel for a few days to be able to experience such extraordinary wildlife encounters.
BEACHES OF LOS CABOS
The final stop on my Mexico tour was to check out our portfolio of beach resorts in Los Cabos, and investigate anything new. For those who are not familiar with the area, ‘Los Cabos’ covers the stretch of coastline between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, on the southernmost point of the Baja Peninsula. Here, beaches and luxury resorts come in all shapes and sizes, but the unifying factor is that you can enjoy some of the highest levels of service in Mexico. The restaurant scene here is also superb, there’s a great range of activities to enjoy alongside beach relaxation, and the area has a slightly more exclusive feel than some other beach destinations in Mexico. One of my top tips if you are visiting Los Cabos is to make sure you spend a little time exploring San Jose del Cabo. It is a beautiful little colonial town with a very Mexican feel. You could easily pass an afternoon strolling around its pretty streets dotted with colonial buildings, art galleries and shops – then remain for dinner at one of the atmospheric restaurants.
What are the best beach resorts in Los Cabos?
Beachfront at One&Only Palmilla
It is important to choose your Los Cabos beach resort carefully, as not all hotels have access to a safe swimming beach. However, if this is not a dealbreaker for you, there are some wonderful luxury resorts where you can enjoy sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean from the infinity pool, take strolls along wild and beautiful beaches, and surrender to complete indulgence in spas and fine dining restaurants.
If swimming in the sea is important, two resorts I particularly recommend are:
- Chileno Bay Resorts & Residences – this polished, family-friendly resort from the Auberge Collection has a lovely beach for swimming, and outstanding food.
- One&Only Palmilla – one of Mexico’s very best beach hotels! The setting of the One&Only gives it the feel of a secluded desert oasis, the spa and dining options are superb, and an array of activities can be organised for your free time.
There are plenty of other wonderful options along the coastline of Los Cabos, and I have inspected all of those worth knowing about. I am therefore happy to provide advice and make recommendations on what might be the best luxury resort for you.
MY TOP MEXICO TRAVEL TIPS
Less is more
Mexico is so vast that, unless you have 3+ weeks to spare, it will be very difficult to cover all the country’s top attractions without having to take lots of flights and unpack every other day. I advise covering fewer regions in greater depth, and I will help you narrow down the options based on your specific interests and priorities.
Take a journey through food
Mexico’s food is as diverse as its regions, and – whichever areas of the country you are travelling to – food will form a big part of your journey. I recommend not being afraid to try new things. Street food is a big part of the culinary scene in towns and cities, and the high turnover means this is often a great way to grab a fresh and delicious lunch. Aim for the stands where the locals are queuing and you can’t go too wrong! The ingredients of street food stalls and taquerías often reflect the best produce of the region, so in Baja California you may encounter delicious fish or shrimp tacos. In Mexico City, the options are simply endless, but tacos al pastor (rammed with juicy, slow-roasted pork) are a much-loved speciality, as are tlacoyos – soft corn tortillas, stuffed with beans, fried with plenty of cheese, and garnished with avocado or nopales (cactus pad) salad. For a more in-depth food tour of Mexico, you may also wish to consider an itinerary along the lines of our Mexico Culinary Journey.
Plan early for December and January beach escapes
Whether you are taken with the idea of some beach time in Los Cabos, or are more drawn to the Riviera Maya with its Caribbean beaches, one thing you absolutely must do is plan ahead if you want to travel in December and January. The more exclusive luxury resorts in the best locations get booked up very early, and I often have clients call me six months before Christmas, surprised that there is hardly any availability at their preferred hotels. Planning early will give you by far the best choice, the most attractive prices, and something wonderful to look forward to on the horizon as winter sets in.
