- By George Morgan-Grenville
When I founded Red Savannah in 2011, the fallout from the global banking crisis was still prevalent, but little did we know, even larger existential threats lay in store, most notably the Covid pandemic in 2020. Who would have thought that travel would become ILLEGAL for five months in 2021? But that is another story and when travel finally bounced back in 2022, it did so with an unprecedented intensity. Wind forward three years and despite the success of the business, I felt exhausted. Having joined the army straight after leaving school in 1982, I had worked solidly ever since. No gap year and no career gaps. So, in September 2024, in dire need of a proper break, I set off to Asia with my wife, for a month.
We flew to Singapore, before heading out to Indonesia’s Anambas Archipelago and then onwards to Sumba Island and Bali, before heading east to Siargao Island in the Philippines. It was a period of total bliss. I took five books and read only one. But the sense of what I can only describe as ‘cranial decluttering’ was palpable, as was a deeply revived energy bank and zest for life. The difference between a two week holiday and whole month ‘mini-sabbatical’ was completely extraordinary and I could not recommend it more.
Should you wish to contemplate a similar trip, read on for details of the resorts / places visited.
CAPELLA SINGAPORE
Situated on Sentosa Island, a mere 25 minute drive from the airport, the Capella is an architectural gem, fusing the heritage charm of two 1880s Tanah Merah colonial bungalows around a Norman Foster designed contemporary delight. The result is a property that has a vibrant sense of place and yet exudes tranquillity among the beautifully landscaped gardens and pools. The Villas & Suites lack for nothing, undoubtedly some of the best designed hotel rooms I have ever encountered. Only a stone’s throw away from the historic centre of Singapore, it’s easy to bag a table in China Town or Clarke Quay, but on no account leave the hotel without first sampling the mesmerizingly delicious cocktail ‘Queen of Spice’ in The Pineapple Bar.
BAWAH RESERVE
Bawah Reserve is spread across six beautiful, pristine islands in the Anambas Archipelago. Getting there requires a ferry to Batam followed by a 75 minute sea plane ride to Bawah, a journey made incredibly easy as guests are escorted all the way. In many ways, luxury is about never having to think, and Bawah exemplifies this in spades. With the most delightful team of staff, this is a resort where lovely rooms (definitely use the Overwater Bungalows), white sandy beaches and crystal clear aquamarine water present the ultimate opportunity to unwind. The laid-back Boat House serves the best Lobster Nasi Goreng lunch on the planet, accompanied by salad from their own organic farm and perfectly washed down with a glass of chilled Sancerre. With the chicest jungle enveloped tennis court, catamarans, endless snorkelling or hiking opportunities, and a fully equipped PADI Dive Centre (one can even learn how to pilot a dive propulsion vehicle), boredom is not a word associated with Bawah. And after a Castaway Picnic, there is always the (included) daily Spa treatment to fit in before heading to the Tree Top restaurant, set high up in the jungle canopy, for a delicious Asian-fusion cuisine dinner.
NIHI SUMBA
I first visited NIHI Sumba in 2014, shortly after it had been acquired by Chris Burch & James McBride. In 10 years it has been transformed into one of the great places to stay in Asia. Although rated as one of the top surf resorts in the world, there is plenty to occupy the non-surfer, starting with miles of untamed and wild beach along which one can walk, run or ride the resort’s magnificent Sumba ponies, perhaps enjoying a gallop through the shallow waves. There are magnificent waterfalls (straight out of a Bounty ad!) to discover, mountain biking, hiking, padel tennis, village visits and most enchantingly, a series of opportunities to get your hands dirty helping with the great philanthropic work done by the Sumba Foundation. If you can drag yourself away from your Villa overlooking the ocean, there is also the most rejuvenating & transformative Nihioka Spa. Each glorious day can be rounded off with dinner at Ombak, the open air ‘wave front’ restaurant where shoes are optional and the cocktails slip down rather too easily.
MANDAPA RESERVE
With a lack of diligent planning, over-tourism has plagued certain parts of southern Bali and the traffic is legendarily bad. While this also extends to the once quiet village of Ubud, the extraordinary thing is, if one goes to the right place, the problem pretty much disappears. Set high up in the valley overlooking the Ayung River, the Mandapa Reserve is not only breathtaking architecturally, but is also quite possibly one of the most serenely relaxing sanctuaries in which one could ever hope to stay. Descending through the jungle deep into the valley, the 430 sqm Riverfront Pool Villas overlook the gently flowing river with views into the forest beyond. Here you can find your soul and if you so choose, rejuvenate it as well at the quite exceptionally good riverfront Mandapa Spa. Only a short drive away, it is possible to find the deep rural Bali of yesteryear, the most idyllic place to discover with an e-bike, traversing verdant paddy fields, village temples and small farmsteads. Back in the resort, enjoy Japanese fusion gastronomy at Ambar, perched on a cliff above the jungle canopy. Designed around the three principles of wellness, gastronomy & sustainability, the Mandapa will not disappoint.
FOUR SEASONS JIMBARAN BAY
The amazing thing about the Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay is that while you can see the airport runway from the beach, you never hear the planes. As soon as you drive up the hill and into the gorgeous open-air reception, there is a wonderful sense of peace and harmony, enhanced no doubt by the colourful tropical plants juxtaposed against the deep blue of the ocean. There are no rooms at this resort – only Villas & Residences. The latter are truly stunning and perfect for families (as is the beach since unlike Seminyak, there are no big waves or strong currents), while the Villas want for nothing with most having wonderful ocean views. To my delight, the first person I bump into is Randy Shimabaku, the GM, a veteran Four Seasons friend whom I’d last seen at the Four Seasons in Cairo. Everything is lovely here from the spa to the beach club, and with a choice of so many places to eat, one could be forgiven for never setting foot outside the resort.
NAY PALAD HIDEAWAY
The only hotel I have ever left without an extras bill! Nestled between mangrove forests and a white sandy beach on Siargao Island in the Philippines, this is definitively one of the loveliest resorts in Asia. The passion project of legendary Bayern Munich goalkeeper, Bobby Dekeyser (who later made a fortune designing & manufacturing outdoor furniture), this is a place that is free of any ‘luxury chain hotel’ mentality and governed only by the principle of the ‘barefoot state of mind’. With only 10 villas set among palm trees and tropical foliage, the emphasis is on unstructured days, where you eat when you want to eat, and no meal is ever taken in the same place. The cuisine is out of this world good and with everything included (drinks, boats & spa treatments as well), one never has to worry about signing a tab. The staff are completely exceptional and whether one wants to spend the day exploring local islands by yacht, kayaking through ancient mangroves, scuba diving, yoga, paddle boarding, surfing the famous Cloud 9 wave, playing padel tennis or just sunbathing by the pool, you know it will always end with an outstandingly good candlelit dinner. There are very few resorts in the world that are this good, especially with so few rooms. Not so easy to get to, but worth the journey ten times over.
THE CAPITOL KEMPINSKI, SINGAPORE
While there are more famous addresses in Singapore, The Capitol Kempinski transcends the best of all worlds and in today’s ever more expensive travel environment, still offers great value for money. A beautifully restored heritage building, the property offers a blend of modernity with colonial art deco. Centrally located on Stamford Road, everything one might want to reasonably see is only a stone’s throw away and it is easily possible to walk to Fort Canning Park to see the ‘Battle Box’, the now restored bunker from where the disastrous defence of Singapore was executed in 1942. This is a city where there is so much to see and do and it is worth planning a few days to take everything in. We managed to combine lunches and dinners with local friends with plenty of sightseeing including the extraordinary Cloud Forest, Flower Dome and Supertree Grove. And of course, we had to have lunch in Lavo, the rooftop restaurant at the Marina Bay Sands, set 57 stories above earth with a killer view of the City State.
