When visiting Provence, there are few pastimes more alluring than browsing an authentic local market. Here you can experience Provence at its most colourful and aromatic as you browse enticing stalls bursting at the seams with sun-kissed fruits, pungent cheeses, delicate charcuterie and fine Provençal lavender and lace. Pick up freshly baked croissants to enjoy with your café crème, or a generous wedge of Banon cheese to feast on along with a crusty baguette in the warm sunshine. Across the region, you really are spoiled for choice it comes to authentic local markets, but here we help you narrow down the best markets in Provence.
MARKETS IN THE LUBERON
Ménerbes
One of the famous ‘perched villages’ of Provence, medieval Ménerbes extends across a picturesque hilltop in the Luberon mountains. Every Thursday morning there is a small but highly-acclaimed market in the centre of the village, where local cheese from the Alps and prunes from Agen are a speciality. A morning in the market can be paired with time spent wandering the narrow streets of the village, taking in the incredible views over the Luberon Valley, the 16th century churches and the Citadelle, Ménerbes’ miniature fortress.
Gordes
Regularly vying for the title of the most beautiful village in France, Gordes boasts sweeping views over Provence from its hilltop perch, the view turning a vibrant purple in July as the lavender fields below burst into bloom. Every Tuesday morning, the foot of the castle at the centre of the village is alive with market stalls. The essence of the market centres around Provençal fabrics, soaps and lavender. Equally enjoyable is the prospect of tasting your way around the market, sampling regional olive oil, saucisson, cheese and local lavender honey.
Cavaillon
Marking the western gateway to the Luberon, the town of Cavaillon boasts a rich heritage, including its striking Roman arch. Cavaillon's market is held every Monday morning and, with up to 200 stalls, it offers an authentic array of regional produce and crafts, where locals flock to buy the freshest ingredients as well as to catch up with friends. Becoming famous during the 19th century for its melon production, Cavaillon also lays claim to the best cantaloupe melons in France. Such is the popularity of its most famous export that the month of July is dedicated to the melon with exhibitions and plentiful tastings during the festival, Melons en Fêtes.
Apt
Dating back to the twelfth century, the market at Apt is the biggest market in the Luberon. Taking place on Saturday mornings, some 300 stalls extend across the length and breadth of the town during the summer months. There isn’t much you won’t be able to find at this lively market, with an array of high-quality items ranging from linen and clothing to perfume, herbs and fresh flowers. Apt itself stands on the Via Domitia, the first Roman road built in France which linked Italy to Spain, and is therefore well worth remaining for a leisurely lunch to further absorb the town’s rich cultural heritage.
Coustellet
To experience an authentic marché paysan – where goods are sold only by the producers themselves - we recommend heading to the village of Coustellet in the west of the Luberon. The farmer’s market here takes place every Sunday morning between April and December, and stallholders showcase the very finest local fruits, vegetables, herbs, flowers, honey, cheese and wine of the region. A smaller version of the market is also held on Wednesday evenings between June and August, providing the perfect opportunity to combine an evening stroll with some shopping.
Lourmarin
Nestled among vineyards, olive groves and almond trees, the charming village of Lourmarin hosts a market on its cobblestone streets every Friday morning. The stalls take over the tree-lined avenue into the village centre, providing an inviting display of regional specialities under the shade of century-old plane trees. In addition to fresh local produce, Lourmarin’s market is also a great spot to purchase gifts such as jewellery, carved olive wood, soaps and woven baskets.
Bonnieux
On Friday mornings, the weekly market in picturesque Bonnieux bursts into life. You could follow a circuit beginning at the bottom of the hill where stalls focus on colourful art and fabrics, gradually winding your way up to browse straw baskets, leather goods, tasty tapenades and jams. Reaching the main square, food is the main event and the prospect of fresh local cheeses, asparagus and wild boar sausages may prove difficult to resist.
Cucuron
Picture-postcard Cucuron is a photographer’s delight with its bassin pool in the main square shaded by 200 year-old plane trees. Visit on a Tuesday morning to see the village bustling with the activity of the weekly market, where enticing cured meats, cheese and honey are some of the delights on display to tempt you. When you have had enough browsing, a coffee or refreshing pression at a pavement café in the square allows you to recover and watch the comings and goings play out in front of you.
Forcalquier
Also known as ‘The Town of the Four Queens’, the market at Forcalquier is one of the most important in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence region. Such was the importance of the market in Forcalquier’s history that even the main church was named Notre Dame du Marché, and it acts as a backdrop for the centre of the market. Visit on a Monday and allow ample time to browse local pottery, fabrics and crafts as well as organic produce and delicious items for lunch or dinner such as freshly baked quiche and paella.
Roussillon
Provence basks in its warmest glow in Roussillon, where warm ochre cliffs surround a picturesque hilltop village. Ochre merges into shades of pink and peach in the centre of the village, where painted houses line pedestrianised streets leading up to the main square. Roussillon’s Thursday morning market can be visited year-round, where you can delve into an array of produce which glows as richly as the town itself.
Goult
For those seeking to veer off the tourist trail, the lesser-known village of Goult is a haven of historical charm and natural beauty. Opening onto rolling countryside characterised by lavender fields, orchards and vineyards, Goult’s Thursday market showcases the finest regional produce. Around 30 market stalls line the shaded market square, and the most sought-after specialities include fresh goat’s cheese and truffles. The ruins of the 11th century Chateau de Goult overlook the village from the mountain, and Goult’s 16th century windmill remains one of the village’s most iconic landmarks.
Carpentras
The truffle capital of the South of France, Carpentras, at the foot of Mont Ventoux, is a lively Provençal town which thrums with life during its Friday morning market. In the historic town centre, over 300 stalls display an array of produce - though truffles are undoubtedly the most sought-after. During the winter, the famous truffle market includes a showcase for the ‘black diamond’, which brings together farmers, adjudicators, locals and visitors from far and wide.
Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue lies at the foot of the Vaucluse plateau and is widely considered to be the antiques capital of Provence. The river Sorgue’s canals run through the town, connected by narrow bridges, and the Sunday market extends along the riverside. Visitors flock here to browse a treasure trove of antiques and colourful bric-a-brac, as well as to visit the permanent antique shops and art galleries. On the first Sunday of August, the village hosts a ‘floating market’, a work of art in itself where vendors and their families, dressed in traditional Provençal clothing, float down the canal on wooden barques.
BEYOND THE LUBERON
Vaison-La-Romaine
Vaison-La-Romaine is rich in Roman history and heritage, as its name suggests. The ruins found here are considered some of the most important in France and include a Roman theatre from the first century BC, which is still used for events today, as well as a Roman villa with mosaic floors and public baths. The market on Tuesday mornings is a wonderful time to visit Vaison-La-Romaine, as the market stretches throughout the old town. The stalls offer a variety of fresh local produce as well as traditional French art, pottery and textiles.
Aix-en-Provence
Already a worthy Provence attraction in its own right, the beautiful university city of Aix also plays host to a variety of different markets throughout the year. The farmer’s market takes place every day of the year in Place Richelme, a charming square near the Town Hall, surrounded by restaurants and cafés. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, the general market opens its doors to more vendors from around the region and extends down the Cours Mirabeau boulevard. This ‘everything market’ displays antiques alongside handmade arts and crafts such as pottery, wicker baskets and high-quality linens.
St Rémy de Provence
A place of inspiration for writers and artists across centuries (including Vincent Van Gogh who depicted the surrounding countryside in over 150 canvases), St Rémy de Provence has an irresistible charm. Though a small market is held on Saturday mornings, Wednesday morning is the main market day in St Rémy and is a particularly colourful time to visit. A wealth of stalls splay out across the streets of the old town, and the sights and aromas are intoxicating. A popular figure is the ‘paella man’ who crafts his creations in front of the church in a pan that is three feet wide. Juicy rotisserie chickens are another tempting lunch option which can be picked up in the market, as well as cheese, olives and tapenades.
Eygalières
On Friday mornings, the tranquil Alpilles village of Eygalières springs to life during its weekly market. Although the market is small, it is displays an impressive selection of artisanal goods including soaps, wicker baskets, shoes and items crafted from olive wood. The olive groves surrounding Eygalières produce some of the finest olive oil which in Provence, produced organically and available to purchase in the weekly market.
Maussane Les Alpilles
Earning similar acclaim for its olive oil, the market at Maussane Les Alpilles is an authentic Provençal affair, attracting just as many locals as visitors. The weekly village market takes place on Thursday mornings in Place Henri Giraud, and is wonderful place to sample local olives and goats cheese, as well as to pick up regional gifts such as wicker baskets and beautiful lavender items.
